travel

Bear, darker than midnight.

/ Brett Ann Stanciu / 16 Comments

I’m walking up a fourth-class road when I spy a black shape moving along the upper end of the nearby hayfield. Vermont divides its roads into categories, from the interstates to dirt roads to the little-used former farm or forest roads that are snowed-cover in winter, mud-rutted in spring. I stand beside a wild apple tree, the blue view of the Worcester Mountains over my shoulder, and admire this bear, darker than midnight against the field’s glossy emerald. When green kindles in Vermont spring, it flourishes.

This place I’ve never walked, although I’ve seen maps and heard stories. The road treks uphill through the forest and dips down where Caspian Lake gleams, realm of summer visitors, but for the time, still the territory of the locals.

I find what I’m seeking and also what I’m not: the labor-dense stone walls whose once-upon-a-time fields are gone to forest, moss-covered cellar holes, twisted rusty remains of farm equipment. Peepers chorus. An old farmhouse with an enormous veranda on a hill must have once had a royal view of the lake, and endured bitter winter winds. Someone has tried to cut the wild reclamation from the house and mostly failed.

In the sunlight, I linger, wondering who lived here, their stories silent. The two-story house has large dormers and many windows; it’s not a fly-by-night, tossed-up structure. On my way home, I pause where I saw the bear, searching, but of course the bear has moved on. Three ducks fly low over my head. The earth exhales its sweetness of thawing mud, the turning-over of last autumn’s leaves, this summer’s great promise.

“Deep in the forest a call was sounding, and as often as he heard this call, mysteriously thrilling and luring, he felt compelled to turn his back upon the fire and the beaten earth around it, and to plunge into the forest, and on and on, he knew not where or why; nor did he wonder where or why, the call sounding imperiously, deep in the forest.” — Jack London

Journey of many layers.

/ Brett Ann Stanciu / 4 Comments

One of the best journeys of my life was when I was 19 and had long hair I rarely brushed. My then-boyfriend and I were hitchhiking (don’t hitchhike any more, folks) at the Greenfield, MA, I-91 exit, heading north, home to Brattleboro. A man driving an old convertible Cadillac, a great white Moby Dick beast, picked us up. In my memory, he’s smoking a cigar and grinning. While he and the BF sat in the front, shooting the shit, I sprawled in a backseat so enormous it could host a family. I surely wore no seatbelt. My god, on that July evening, I felt like I was flying.

This week, a grad school friend of mine invited me to spend a morning as a visiting writer with his students. All the layers of this trip—the journey south, the first solo I’ve taken since the cancer (my girls urging me to drive carefully, have fun), the stop in Brattleboro where I’d lived in my twenties and was happy, the visit with my dear friend and his wife who I immediately feel is a kindred soul, in their inviting house with a backyard vernal pool and singing peepers, a night of rainstorms, the morning’s magnolia blossoms gleaming pearly—all these layers folded into these writing students who arrived with questions and notebooks, hungry. In this breaking world, what a joy to swim for a bit with others in the passionate stream of loving literature, in all its myriad forms.

On my way home, I stop at a café near Dartmouth-Hitchcock Medical Center. By then, early afternoon, I’m worn down. The café was a favorite of my daughters, in all those months I was treated. Last June, when I was finally well enough to join them, no longer sequestered in a hospital room, they bought me a plain croissant, and I ate a few bites of its inner softness. This afternoon, on the sunny patio, I devour pickled vegetables, soaked in vinegar—something I could not eat last year. Delicious.

April, mud season, it’s just me and a young woman with an infant cradled on her chest. I read for a bit, and then as I’m gathering my things, a car pulls up with two young women. They run to the woman and the baby, laughing and shouting, gleeful.

Midafternoon, I have a ways to drive yet, along the wide river and over the mountains. I take a small walk first through the pine forest behind the café. Warm sunlight filters through the canopy. No ephemerals emerge yet, but soon, soon, as the trout lily leaves spread over the earth. My mother would have noticed the young mother, her sleeping babe, the joyous friends meeting this new life. Such satisfaction she would have taken. One more element folded into this journey. Then I head north.

…. And for folks around me, Helen Whybrow will read from her fantastic The Salt Stones and Jody Gladding from her translation of Jean Giono’s The Serpent of Stars at Greensboro’s Highland Center for the Arts, Saturday, followed an artists’ reception for a stunning group exhibition celebrating Vermont’s pastoral life. I was lucky to write about this for Seven Days.

I am beginning to understand that healing is not about returning to what was, but about accepting the change and adapting to the brokenness. This is happening all around us, for people, for the land. People have done damage to the earth and to each other that can’t be undone. We can lament what was, but that won’t help us take care of what we still have. In fact, it might just hold us back. ~ Helen Whybrow

Natural resurrection.

/ Brett Ann Stanciu / 5 Comments

I am reminded of spring by the quality of the air . . . It is a natural resurrection, an experience of immortality. ~ Henry David Thoreau

Friday begins raw and shivery. I’ve shed my long underwear and regret it. By mid-afternoon, the sun’s emerged. I park along a muddy road and hike up through a soggy pasture to the stone cellar holes. A hundred years ago, a farm must have been rooted on this hillside, bracing against winter’s snowy wind, full of summer sun. A view of mountains and the Lamoille River Valley. Sugar maples dominate what remains.

As I approach, robins flutter, fly, resettle, their singing unbroken. I tie my coat around my waist, cram my hat in my pocket. At home, green nubs of lilies and crocuses emerge, just beginning their greening. Among the lilacs, I look for those daffodils.

Mighty spring, season of healing. The winter’s debris of compost and spent woodpile and last fall’s unclipped perennials emerge. Every year, spring rushes in with a surprise. A certain reminder of mortality, but so lovely, so marvelously endearing…

Mired in fog.

/ Brett Ann Stanciu / 12 Comments

I hole up for the weekend reading Wallace Stegner, a pastoral novel about friendship and mortality, about the pre-internet world when complicated events unraveled perhaps not more kindly but more slowly. Vermont March is the season of live-or-die, the fits and starts of spring, jagged with driving ice, whirling snow, delirious sun.

I drive home from a dinner out in a fog so thick that the car before me pulls off, turns on flashers, and maybe simply intends to wait it out. It’s not late, but there’s no one else out, the wind throwing twigs at my windshield, the radio jingling Lou Reed. I’ve not driven in a fog so profound since I was in my twenties, living in the wooded spine of the Green Mountains, in the years when I was brash with youth and amor. The edges of the road vanish. I pull over at the spring with its pipe where people gather water, and I stand just outside the beam of my headlights, the nearby stream gushing against what remains of its winter ice. I surely can’t stay here for the night, shivering, on the edge of my own mad solitude. The way back, the way forward, all around: pathless, and surely a metaphor for this time.

I’m still shaken to the core by lymphoma, by chemo, by the surgeons who sliced me open and removed those physical scars so I might live. I’m here for this moment, flesh over my slender shoulders, my now bony hips that once carried two babies, and flesh—well, so easily ruined. I spent most of last March in one ED or hospital room or another. While the world spun on, I leaned into treatment, propped up by dear ones, who ferried me to remission.

Now, shivering, nearly blind with fog, I turn off my car and the headlights. The fog wraps around me. I drink it in.

“In the gnostic gospel of St. Thomas, Jesus says, “If you bring forth what is within you, what is within you will save you. If you do not bring forth what is within you, what is within you will destroy you.” — Andrew Solomon

Dad, at 89.

/ Brett Ann Stanciu / 6 Comments

In the summer of 1980, my parents had the summer off. Dad was a college teacher, and my mother, an RN, was encouraged to take unpaid time as the hospital census was low. My parents owned a Jeep, and my dad loaded sleeping bags and two tents in an oilskin on the luggage rack, and secured the bulk with bungee cords. From New Hampshire, my parents headed west with their three kids.

Now, older than my parents were at that time, I wonder what the heck my parents were searching for. As a kid, of course, you simply go with the family flow, show up at the picnic table and eat chili from a plastic bowl. As a writer, I know that all life is propelled by desire, for that bowl of chili, for the wilderness my parents loved, for the far murkier desires that lurk in a human heart. We were never a Bobbsey Twin family (although good lord how I longed for that, a long-quelled desire), but three of us grew up and created our own complicated lives, never far from the wilderness.

Today, my old man is 89, a remarkable age. I woke thinking of him on one of those summer trips, back in the world before cell phones and internet, when no one knew where the five of us were, just us—dad, mom, the three kids—rattling around in that Jeep. Dad always packed tools, and he fixed our vehicle along the way. High up in the Wyoming mountains one summer, it was cold as heck. He got up before any of us, brewed coffee on the Coleman stove and made buttered toast. He unzipped the tent and handed in toast and hot coffee. Stay in your sleeping bags until it warms, he said. We’d been on the road for weeks by then. He was unshaven, bundled in a jacket, and he kept that makeshift hearth of the Coleman stove burning, feeding us toast. Happy birthday, dad. ❤️

And the Hayden Carruth poem that reminds me of my parents…

Birthday Cake

For breakfast I have eaten the last of your birthday cake that you
had left uneaten for five days
and would have left five more before throwing it away.
It is early March now. The winter of illness
is ending. Across the valley
patches of remaining snow make patterns among the hill farms,
among fields and knolls and woodlots,
like forms in a painting, as sure and significant as forms
in a painting. The cake was stale.
But I like stale cake, I even prefer it, which you don’t
understand, as I don’t understand how you can open
a new box of cereal when the old one is still unfinished.
So many differences. You a woman, I a man,
you still young at forty-two and I growing old at seventy.
Yet how much we love one another.
It seems a miracle. Not mystical, nothing occult,
just the ordinary improbability that occurs
over and over, the stupendousness
of life. Out on the highway on the pavement wet
with snow-melt, cars go whistling past. 
And our poetry, yours short-lined and sounding
beautifully vulgar and bluesy
in your woman’s bitterness, and mine almost 
anything, unpredictable, though people say
too ready a harkening back
to the useless expressiveness and ardor of another
era. But how lovely it was, that time
in my restless memory.
This is the season of mud and thrash, broken limbs and crushed briers
from the winter storms, wetness and rust,
the season of differences, articulable differences that signify
deeper and inarticulable and almost paleolithic
perplexities in our lives, and still
we love one another. We love this house
and this hillside by the highway in upstate New York.
I am too old to write love songs now. I no longer
assert that I love you, but that you love me,
confident in my amazement. The spring
will come soon. We will have more birthdays
with cakes and wine. This valley
will be full of flowers and birds.

Cold.

/ Brett Ann Stanciu / 4 Comments

The cold lingers. A friend texts about walking, proposed temperature 5 degrees. It’s a balmy 3, the sun dazzling on fresh snow. A year ago, I sat miserably in her car, hardly able to walk around the high school — did I manage that loop twice? This end-of-January, we walk and talk. Later, sprawled before my woodstove, revising a manuscript that my cat uses as a nest, twilight and then darkness press against the windows. I have not forgotten how easily a body breaks, how rapidly the world shifts from wellness to suffering.

The world propels through flux, and while I’m (at least momentarily) emerging towards fuller health, so much human darkness deepens. My college student daughter phones from Burlington — Vermont’s big city on our own Great Lake — the streets jammed with protestors. The mayor issues a statement as officials prepare for an ICE invasion. “Stay steady,” she urges.

Under the moon hanging in the sky, we head downtown to the coffee shop to admire photographs of the northern lights. The photographer plays a short film of footage shot in locations the audience knows well, roads and lakes and a ridgeline above the village. Turns out, he wrote the music, too, weaving in calling coyotes and chirping crickets, loon songs. It’s no antidote, no balm, but a radiant reminder of the vast universe, of how the horizon shifts from black to pink to green, that we are driven by love of beauty, too. A steadiness.

On Frozen Fields

1 
We walk across the snow, 
The stars can be faint, 
The moon can be eating itself out, 
There can be meteors flaring to death on earth, 
The Northern Lights can be blooming and seething 
And tearing themselves apart all night, 
We walk arm in arm, and we are happy. 

2 
You in whose ultimate madness we live, 
You flinging yourself out into the emptiness, 
You - like us - great an instant, 

O only universe we know, forgive us. ~ Galway Kinnell